Austria 

The Wilder-Kaiser - Countless Pistes Beneath Imposing Peaks

By Mitch Kaplan

I thought Kitzbuhel skiing was huge. Then we drove over to Wilder-Kaiser. Now, that was huge.

Okay, so maybe that’s the way they do it in Austria. Huge and huger. But, it takes some getting used to - about ten minutes or so. After that, awesomeness takes over.

Wilder-Kaiser names both a tall, sharply pointed limestone wall of multiple peaks that reveals itself at every turn along the road, and the ski region. Those mountain faces grab your attention by sheer starkness and power and, even though you’re skiing across the valley from them, they lurk over you at every turn. The sense of awe is unrelenting.

In terms of scope, the ski region - full name, SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser-Brixental - is hard to fathom. And, it’s growing. During my January, 2008, visit, it held 250-kilometers of pistes, 90 lifts and 70 on-hill restaurants. Now, thanks to the 2008-09 addition of an eight-seat cable car at the "SkiWeltbahn" on the Westendorf Choralpe, the region holds 91 lifts and 279 kilometers of slopes.

The trail map says it all: "Plenty of Slopes. Real Big."

Still, despite its size, Wilder-Kaiser is very family-friendly. Its small base villages - all nine of them - exude a low-key, family-oriented atmosphere. With a smattering of inns, "sport-hotels," small shops and restaurants, each village makes an excellent destination for those who don’t need glitz.

My companions and I had time to ski four of the region's areas: Ellmau, Going, Scheffau and Soll. We began at Ellmau, but immediately found ourselves going to, well, Going. We skied a few runs there, and summarily returned to explore Ellmau. Then, it was on to Scheffau and, eventually, Soll.

And so it went, dashing from one ski area to the next on a series of wide, cruising slopes. Along the way, we rode a funicular ski lift for the first time (it’s like riding a train up the mountain).

We did this for two days, periodically allowing the snow Sirens to lure us into fresh powder between the marked trails and, at a few spots, charging down some of the steepest groomed pistes I’ve ever encountered.

All the while, that Wilder-Kaiser mountain rampart kept arresting our progress. We were simply compelled to stop, marvel and take photos.

I confess to one fear that hounded me as we raced from lift to lift. Lord help me, I kept thinking, if I became separated from guide and group. This place goes on forever and all the signs are in German. I’d never find my way back. I stuck to our guide like glue.

We were lodging in Kitzbuhel, so had no chance to experience Wilder-Kaiser hotels. But, returning to Kitzbuhel, we stopped at Stanglwirt Reithalle, a working farm and upscale hotel/restaurant complex.

Ski country is full of upscale hotels with top notch restaurants. So, why stop there?

Because of the horses.

And the cows.

Stanglwirt Reithalle is the winter home to some of the famed Lipanzzer Horses, those magnificent, Viennese, all-white creatures that perform choreographed routines for audiences worldwide. At Stanglwirt Reithalle, you can not only meet the equines up close and personal (I had a nice talk with a horse named Mozart), but if you’re a good enough equestrian, you can arrange to ride one. It’s a horse person’s dream.

And the cows? Well, this is still a working farm - despite the gourmet food, state-of-the-art fitness/wellness center, indoor tennis courts, outdoor heated pool (you get the idea) - and the cows still inhabit the barn.

And the barn is still attached to the main building adjacent to the gourmet restaurant.

And there are windows between.

So, as you fine dine, the cows look over your shoulder from their stalls.

You might think that cool. You might think that gross. But, you must admit it’s unique.

Come right down to it, the whole damned Wilder-Kaiser is unique. With that gigantic mountain wall lording over everything, it keeps you permanently awestruck.