Austria 

Spotlight On Kitzbühel

(Originally written for OnTheSnow.com)
by Ted Heck

Cognoscenti of the ski world say “kitz” when they refer to world-renowned kitzbühel in austria’s tyrol.

These people in the know, however, will point out that this is not to be confused with “Kitsch,” which suggests dubious value and bad taste. There is nothing déclassé in this historic, walled medieval town that has undergone some changes in recent years. An upscale, fur-coated clientele now shares the resort’s romance with younger, vociferous crowds who have discovered that Kitz is affordable for their shallower pockets. But folks on the cobblestoned streets are still more likely to saunter than strut.

The state of Tyrol has 119 ski resorts, but few rival Kitz in recognition and popularity. It’s on many Top Ten lists of European destinations. A wide spectrum of history, scenery, shopping and exciting après ski makes for colorful add-ons to the downhill and cross country skiing experiences.

Nearl;y 150 miles of tended terrain and 53 lifts attract mostly intermediate level downhill skiers. Nordic fans have 14 miles of tracks, most of them easy, with a handful that are heavy going. (A regional ski pass offers far-flung opportunities on 420 miles of prepared slopes and 260 lifts.)

Kitzbühel has been home to the famed Hahnenkamm race for more than 70 years on a course that sets the standard for World Cup downhill. Advanced recreational skiers are often on the track, trying to emulate local legend Toni Sailer, the first skier ever to win three Olympic golds (Cortina, 1956).

A popular trip for anyone above beginner level originates at the top of open snowfields, goes over the other side of the mountain and descends into Kirchberg in another valley. Several routes are navigable, including some in the trees. Skiers too tired to retrace their steps return to Kitz by bus.

Every kind of winter activity is here for the asking. You can bundle up for a sleigh ride or soar in a balloon. And people-watching knows no season.

A mink-draped lady stepping out of a Mercedes with a mobile phone may pay more than $200 a night to sleep in the five-star Romantik Hotel Tennerhof, but a budget-minded skier will find lots of places to cut the cost in half. Some small houses offer bed and breakfast for as little as $35. The town is different from many ski resorts in having more residents than guests, but it has nearly 7,000 beds in a wide range of prices. Bargain hunters can find attractive package deals. Also, there are cheap but pleasant alternatives in neighboring hamlets of Aurach and Reith.

Kitzbühel is only 2,600 feet above sea level. Lower means warmer and less clothing to shed. Sleeping lower also is a boon to anyone susceptible to high altitude illness, a common affliction in the American Rockies.

Snowmaking does help keep lower slopes skiable. If that fails, skiers ride 30 miles to Kaprun and the Kitzsteinhorn glacier. It is snow sure there all year long.

Kitzbühel is more than 100 miles from Munich, the major gateway. Most of the ride down is on the Autobahn, where a Porsche will whiz by at 150 miles an hour. It gets you in the mood for the Hahnenkamm.