Austria 

Spotlight On Saalbach-Hinterglemm

(Originally written for OnTheSnow.com)
by Ted Heck

These neighboring villages in the state of Salzburg are on many skiers’ lists of Top Ten resorts in Austria.

Ten is also the number of mountains here that are interconnected by an efficient lift system, or a “circus.” The 54-lift complex, which stretches along both sides of a long valley, is an outstanding example of the quintessential difference between skiing the Alps and the Rockies: the ability to ride up one mountain, slide down it backside, go up another mountain, down again, up again, often ending a long way from the first lift. You can ski back or take the free ski bus included in the lift pass, if the vast terrain has done you in.

The slopes on these mountains appeal to cruisers who like the idea that half of the 124 miles of prepared runs are rated intermediate. Only five percent is classified as advanced. Highest vertical is a respectable 3,300 feet and the longest run is more than four miles.

A bonus for skiers is the ability to ski or snowboard over one of the mountains above Saalbach to Leogang in another valley.

The jointly-promoted villages of Saalbach and Hinterglemm are 2.5 miles apart, but buildings along the way make them seem adjacent. However, their characters are different. Saalbach dominates as it’s bigger, prettier, livelier, and higher priced. It appeals to a younger crowd. Hinterglemm is family-oriented, quieter and older.

The main street of Saalbach is traffic free, a lingering benefit from a congestion-easing tunnel built 17 years ago, when Saalbach/Hinterglemm hosted the World Alpine Championships. They were in Austria again recently (2001) in St. Anton in the Arlberg region.

As in any progressive resort, equipment upgrading is ongoing.. Improvements in snowmaking continue, as a safety measure for low-lying slopes, where snow might otherwise fall apart in springtime. Saalbach’s base elevation is less than 3,600 feet.

Snowmaking was not needed the day Connie and I skied here. We were on a day trip from the romantic city of Salzburg, part of a week-long program offered by the Salzburg Ski Safari. We slept in town each night, sometimes after attending a Mozart concert, but every day we skied at a different area.

This day we lunched in one of 40 mountain restaurants, where I had my favorite dessert - a Germknodel. It is a grapefruit-size dumpling, filled with lekvar and covered with poppyseeds and a butter sauce.

Despite a complete whiteout, I convinced Connie that we could find enough landmarks to work our way down an easy groomed run. It worked for a while, until we found ourselves in knee-deep snow and completely disoriented. For 30 harrowing minutes we fell often, struggled to get back up, kick turned, and swore a lot.

We were soaking wet when we groped toward a building at the base. While we recovered over a transfusion, we told the bartender about our run and pointed in its general direction.

“Congratulations,” he said. “You just skied the World Cup downhill course in deep snow, with no light. Have another drink.”

If you go to Saalbach/Hinterglemm, the adventure will be much different. The region has many sunny days. But on the odd chance of bad weather, remember that Salzburg is one of Austria’s most colorful cities. It is only an hour away.

Saalbach/Hinterglemm is about 3.5 hours from the Munich gateway airport.