France 

Serre-Chevalier : Powder and Sun

By André Gupta, Director of Ski Alpine Experience

 
Are you tired of skiing on cold, cloudy and grey slopes? Perhaps you should visit the snowiest yet sunniest resort in France? This gem of a station is tucked away in the Southern Alps of France where Provence, Italy and the Alps meet between Grenoble and Turin. Due to the unique climate skiers no longer need to make the trade-off between snow and clouds or sunshine and little snow. Not only does the resort benefit from the most favorable skiing climate for skiing in the western Alps but it also offers a huge ski area nearly one mile high and several miles wide. Beneath it you will find three authentic French villages that existed before skiing, a fortified town recognized by UNESCO as patrimony to humankind, an open air hot springs and a valley perfect for exploration on cross-county skis. Together the authentic villages, the town, the hot springs, the weather, and the skiing make up an unbeatable winter holiday destination.

Forget the resort of la Grave for off-piste powder; it is quickly tracked out by a resident cult of die-hard powder skiers that numbers several hundred in winter. You are more likely to find fresh powder in Serre-Chevalier because much of the clientèle is too timid to go off-piste. The fact that the resort is affordable means that many clients are families who ski primarily on prepared runs, leaving a lot of powder for singles and couples. During an average winter Serre-Chevalier receives tons of snow; last year during three weeks from mid-December until early-January, at 2000m, the resort picked up a whopping 15 feet of snow, more than twice that of any other resort in the Western Alps at that altitude. Yet there were still countless sunny days during the period. Typically at Serre-Chevalier it is either sunny, snowing with some bright intervals, or snowing. Serre-Chevalier a high mountain ridge with several peaks--- the highest of which is the Yret at 2830m. It is surrounded by a ring of mountain tops that are mostly over 4000m. This creates a dry climate and keeps out all mid-level stratus clouds that account for most of the cloudy, snowless days in other resorts in the Western Alps. Mid-level stratus clouds typically form between 2400 and 3500m and are thick enough to block the sun but do not bring any snow. They create difficult skiing conditions. But they do not affect Serre-Chevalier, because they cannot get over the high mountains that protect the entrance to the valley. Ironically, they are often associated with a high pressure system which pushes down on them--- keeping them below the altitude of the protecting peaks. No matter where the wind comes from, it is descending from a very high altitude into the valley. This dries out the air; when it starts to precipitate the moisture evaporates as it falls into the air and cools it. Forced water evaporation causes cooling. So much so that the snowline is typically 300 to 400m lower in Serre-Chevalier than in any other resort in the Western Alps. Despite global warming it is almost always possible to ski to Briançon at 1300m, the lowest point in the resort, while in many resorts skiing so low is an exception. The dry air also cools rapidly at night allowing for snow-making and ensuring an early resort opening and skiing on more snow later than any other resort in the Western Alps. Last year they skied until April 19th down to Briançon. This season they plan to ski until May 4^th.

The skiing extends across nine miles and 250km of runs, offering diverse terrain such as snow bowls, enchanted larch forests, couloirs, steep runs, groomed runs. The larch forest is unique to ski in, because this tree is the only conifer that sheds its needles every fall. This provides a rare opportunity to ski through a forest of conifers. For a challenging steep run nothing beats the sustained 4,000 foot vertical descent down to Briançon or for a shorter but more intense white-knuckle experience the Luc Alphand run down to Chantemerle. If you are looking to rack of a lot of vertical try the Orée du Bois, Prorel, Casse de Boeuf, or Bachus chairlifts, all of which are high-speed detachables and serve advanced and expert terrain. For the ultimate powder experience January is the best time to visit as you are likely to find fresh powder. One New Year Eves four feet of snow fell. Snow that falls in January stays fresh as the sun is less intense and there are fewer skiers. I have skied chest-deep powder in January several times. Powder in March and April is common, too, but the strong sun can quickly transform all but the steep north-facing slopes into corn. The Grand Serre Ché ski pass allows for one day of skiing in Sestrière, Alpe d’Huez, and les 2 Alpes. Sestrière is a venue for the 2006 Olympic Games and the starting point for the Milky Way ski circuit.

Centuries before modern skiing started the villages that line the Guisane stream valley were inhabited by Vaudois protestants fleeing persecution in neighboring Italy and France. One of their legacies---the sundial---can be seen in many villages throughout the area, especially in Briançon and Névache in neighboring Val Clarée, the home of an important cross-country ski center. For a peek into the religious past of the region you can visit the Sacred Art Museum in Monêtier-les-Bains. While in Monetier-les-Bains be sure to visit the Etablissement les Bains, or hot springs, whose outdoor pool has a beautiful view of neighboring mountains. There is no better way to end a ski day than by taking in the waters at the hot springs during dusk, when the peaks turn a fiery orange red.

Forts were built in Briançon and it became the most heavily fortified town in the region as the French Monarchy, and then Government sought to defend the area from Italy. Remains of these forts are still intact, and strolling through the Cité Vauban reminds one of the struggle that life was in yesteryear. The cobblestone streets are narrow and marked by an open sewer system that used to clean the town. You can walk along the ramparts and see fortifications that used to hide cannons. Entering into one of the many restaurants, such as the Gavroche, you notice the vaulted ceiling, which is testament to the area’s shepherding past. Many former bergeries have been turned into affordable French restaurants, creating one of the most affordable French gastronomic experiences in any ski resort. Briançon is a year-round destination that happens to have wonderful skiing, but it also is a great place for a romantic getaway.. Hotel prices are much more affordable than in many other ski resorts and neighboring villages.

Before the creation of the Chantemerle cable car in 1941 and the start of ski tourism, sheep raising was the lifeblood of the valley. The name Serre-Chevalier comes from Serre, meaning mountain range, and Cambell, referring in provençal to the flocks of sheep that grazed on the mountains during summertime. Over the years Serre Cambell evolved into Serre-Chevalier. Nowadays there is no room for the sheep during winter and they are bused to winter pastures near the southern coast of France and they return each summer to ‘trim’ the ski slopes.

Where to Stay

Briançon

Alpe Hotel, modern hotel with sauna, steamroom and pool between the old town and the lifts ; tel 33 4 92 200 200

Auberge de la Paix (in the Cité Vauban), very charming hotel perfect for a weekend tête-à-tête; tel 33 4 92 21 37 43

Chantemerle

La Pleine Sud, modern hotel with pool and sauna very near the lifts and village, tel 33 4 92 24 17 01

Villeneuve

Mont Thabor, new deluxe hotel, sauna, jacuzzi, steam room, in resort center of Villeneuve tel 33 4 92 24 74 41

Monêtier-les-Bains

Hotel Allié, traditional spa inn, jacuzzi, heated pool, well situated for expert skiers tel 33 4 92 24 40 02

Névache

L’Echaillon, when you really want to get away from it all, this lodge with a sauna is located in the remote Val Clarée and in the heart of one of the top cross-country ski centers in France tel 33 4 92 21 37 30

Aprés-ski

Depending on where you end your ski day:
-Briançon-le pub du prorel-- just in front and on your right as you come off the escalator;this is also where the ski bus stops.
-Chantemerle-----try the Taverne de la Bière, which has a big terrace located right on the bottom of the Luc Alphand run.
-Villeneuve----the Grotte de la Yetti is located by the Aravet gondola base area.
-Monêtier-les-Bains---at the bottom of the Bachus chairlift you will find the Halte Préchabert, perfect for after ski drinks or a vin chaud.

Evening Drinks

The Schuss Pub in the Cité Vauban is ideal for drinks and is conveniently located near several romantic restaurants.

Etablissement-les-Bains (in Monêtier-les-Bains)

These hot springs are a must, perfect at sunset ; reservations required (33 4 92 24 55 97) Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday open 2pm-11pm other days until 9pm. Entrance €5.50, with private mineral hydromassage €13

The Casino in Briançon

There will be a new Casino opening this year. Ask locally for more information.

Nightclubs

Nightclub le Bowling, next to the Casino Shopping Center, near the Alpe Hotel in Briançon

-La Baita, in Villeneuve, across from the Christiana Hotel. This place doesn’t get really going until after midnight

Where to Eat

On-mountain restaurants worth noting:
The Pra-long cafe located next to the mid station of the Prorel gondola offers nice sit-down food, including deer (reserve for fireside table 33 4 92 22 35 68).
The Café du Soleil located in Serre-Ratier (above Chantemerle) offers nice duck breast and many tasty treats. The Trolles restaurant nearby is reputed to be nice.
The Bivouac restaurant located at the top of the Casse de Bouef chairlift offers the finest on-mountain Gastronomic French food and also has a self-service café (reservations 33 4 92 24 87 72)

Evening Digs

Briançon

Cité Vauban Le Passé Simple, fine affordable, charming french restaurant, serves local specialities. 3, rue porte Méane ; tel 33 4 92 21 37 43

Le Gavroche, French restaurant built in a former sheep stable (bergerie) 40 Grande Rue ; tel 33 4 92 21 11 81

Le Palais de Jaipur, Indian restaurant 8, Place General Eberlé; tel 33 4 92 21 09 18

Bas Ville (lower town) Le Peché Gourmand, gastronomic french food argueably the best restaurant in town 2, Route de Gap ; 33 4 92 21 99 21

Villeneuve Le Passé Simple 1400, very similar to its cousin in the Cité

Vauban1, bis chemin de l’envers ; 33 4 92 24 74 41

Getting There:

Take the highway to Grenoble, follow the Rocade Sud, follow signs for Stations d’Oisans-Briançon-N91. Follow N91 to Briançon. From Geneva , 250km, 3 hrs. For Névache; from Briançon follow N94 towards Turin-Col de Montgenèvre; then turn left on D994 direction Névache and go about 15km. From Briançon, 20km, 25 minutes.

Although reaching Serre-Chevalier by public transportation is difficult from Geneva, once you get there you can park your car and take advantage of the free guest and skier bus; it links the villages and Briançon twice hourly during the ski season.